Norway is still amazing. But things haven't gone to plan.

First of all I promised photos of our amazing campsite in the glaciers. Here they are. Scanning around from left to right.. The weather wasn't great but it was still a great place. And I DID, in fact, have a sauna and then run out and immersed myself in  the icy cold river. It was actually quite an amazing experience (No photos though!)

Rubbish picture but campsite in foreground glacier in background

Another glacier finger in background but cloudy skies hides it

Enormous waterfall at the back of us

Just one tip. Don't wash your thermal underwear hoping it will dry before bedtime. It might not and you might have to wear it in order to dry it out!

Morning view from tent

Looks much better with blue sky doesn't it. This was just as we were leaving.

Continuing north

(is there any other direction?) we then rode through motorcycle heaven. First up to Dalsnibba. An £11 toll road that climbs from 1050 to 1480 metres to a fantastic viewpoint overlooking the mountain tops and down into Geiranger fjord.

What a road

The gravel toll road

Geiranger Fjord

Luckily BMWs don't have reverse

Heading back down the toll road

Then we rode down into Geiranger (where it rained, very heavily) and back up the hairpin pass over to the other side. 

I'm going up there!

Once we'd got through the rain...

with some hot chocolate

 

It looks like this but in the rain we saw little of it

The weather picked up as we headed on

Climbing to nearly 1000m again we then approached the famous Trollstigveien or Troll's ladder. With 11 hairpin bends and a 1:12 gradient this was some road. The view from the top was stunning. And it looked like the sun was finally coming out – having been in Norway for a week now we'd hardly seen it.

    

No words needed

We ended the day camping in a lovely site near Andalsnes.

  

Sunday saw us hit the coast and 'The Atlantic Road'. Voted Norway's greatest construction of the century this was a series of seven bridges connecting a dozen small islands over eight kilometres. Built between 1983-9. Some of the bridges were fairly normal bridges. But not all of them!

 

The famous 'Bridge to nowhere' in the distance

On my way...

 

Heading from Trondheim, Norway's original capital and home to Scandinavia's largest medieval building, we found a cheap (believe me £12 camping for two on a bike with a tent is cheap for Norway) campsite on the shore with a wonderful sunset.

 

Now I know this next sentence is going to please a lot of people.

I ran out of petrol.

I know, I know, but let me explain - it gets funnier ( for you - not for me)

I've always had a bit of front wheel wobble. That's not a euphemism, the front wheel rim on Heidi has always been a little bent. I can cope with it and don't really notice it. But on this trip I've felt it a little more, especially at slow speeds. I thought the wheel may not have been balanced properly when I had a new front tyre fitted last month. Being a bit of a worrier I looked online and asked on the Horizons website and found a BMW bike shop in Trondheim. If you read any of my blog when I went half way around the world you'll know that I like to stop off at the odd BMW dealership and give them lots of money. So why not in Norway.

The plan was to pop in on Monday morning on our way through Trondheim and see if my front wheel wobble was anything to worry about. All good so far. However, the day before I noticed that my computer was starting to play up a little. It always told me when I had 50 miles of fuel left – plenty of time to fill up - that day it wasn't working - I knew I was fairly low on fuel but it was telling me I was full. I made a mental note to tell the BMW people about this too.

So Monday morning we rode the eight miles from the campsite to the bike shop. They kindly said they would have a look at the wheel if I returned after midday so we unloaded the luggage and rode into Trondheim to see the cathedral.

On the way back we ran out of fuel. Of course it was my fault. I knew I was low on petrol and shouldn't rely on a computer, especially when I knew it wasn't working properly. But I still feel we were a little unlucky. We ran out on the E39 (main duel carriage way into Trondheim) in a set of roadworks, so there was no where to take the bike. I had to push her about a kilometre to find a lay-by with traffic piling up behind me. Tracy was walking behind me, I thought taking photos but the camera had decided to stop working (again) at this point as well.

When I got to the lay-by, exhausted, there was postman waiting for me! He'd seen I was in trouble and had pulled in to help. He gave me a lift to the nearest petrol station (which would have been a shattering two further sweaty kilometres down the duel carriage way) and back again with a jerry can of unleaded.

An hour late we returned to the BMW shop and I explained what had happened. We then settled down to wait. Tracy, happily reading her book, me writing up this blog... and whilst I was writing the mechanic came over, smiling – NEVER a good sign.

“You need a new front tyre.”

He took me into the workshop to show me my new front tyre which I'd had fitted just before leaving the UK. There was a worrying crack all along one side. Not good. The mechanic didn't know what had caused it but said it was serious and I had to replace it. But that wasn't all. The rear bearings were 'shot' as they say.

Look closely and you'll see a crack in the wall, all the way around.

He thought that the wobble I was feeling might be the rear bearings, the wobble coming out at the front as it was the weakest point???

Heidi had chosen the most expensive country in Europe to break down.

They checked the stock to see if they had the spare parts and Tracy and I talked through our options.

1. Make the changes, whatever the cost to carry on with the trip
2. Only make the changes if they are reasonable
3. Keep the old parts and head home.

They had the spare parts. And I asked how much it would all cost. The estimate came back at around £750 for a new front tyre, fitted, and replacing the rear bearings.

I had no real idea how much more expensive this was than if I had it done in the UK. Probably £400 more.

As I type this Heidi is getting fixed and I really hope they have a Trondheim BMW sticker for me to add to my growing collection!

Dom sat in a BMW shop spending money repairing his bike. Where have I seen that before??

No sticker! And a final bill of £740. They were friendly and helpful and it was really good of them to fix it all in one day. But at £90 an hour labour Heidi really had chosen the most expensive country on earth hadn't she!

I'm angry with myself for not spotting the crack in the tyre and I wonder if I should have know more about the rear bearings. But at least I had the sense to seek help when I felt the wobble. Who knows what could have gone wrong further down the road? I feel a slight shudder when I think of all those twisty roads we'd just been down – with that tyre looking like that.

And Tracy? Well, she's not had the best of days and is, I'm sure, feeling a little fed up at travelling with an idiot of a husband. But tonight she's had a shower, some food and chocolate and is currently sitting outside in this lovely campsite we've found 100 miles north of Trondheim, sipping on her whisky.

Tomorrow we leave the main road and head up the R17 for the coast and about seven more ferries as we island hop our way across the Arctic and up to Bodo. (Incidentally, two things have amazed me recently. The total lack of midges/flies/mozzies and how warm it is. Today it was 22 degrees C and I'm typing this, outside, in shorts and a T-Shirt at 9:30 pm. We're at the same latitude as Iceland and central Alaska. That Atlantic gulf stream really has something to answer for.)

Al messages of condolence gratefully received. No gloating or smart arse comments please.

More on Norway...

Anyway, to continue the story...

Heading first for Sand and then Sauda on the 520 we climbed 1000m as the road snaked its way through the enormous mountains, twisting and turning, like a twisty turny thing. We passed grass roofed summer huts (or were they winter ones?) nestled by small green lakes. Interestingly we overheard a Norwegian talking to a tourist about these small lakes in the mountains – called tarns in Scotland. Apparently they don't have a name for them in Norway, they're just called 'small waters'. Strange seeing as there are so many of them.

I want to live there!

The road then ended near Roldal and we turned north west on the E13 towards Sorfjorden. After passing through a 5 km almost dead straight tunnel which headed downhill, we continued winding our way down another 20-30 kms before coming to the head of the fjord at Odda. Turquoise waters gave way to huge sheer cliffs on either side of the valley and massive waterfalls tumbled down into the fjord.

We only did 170 miles but it took us 8 hours.

I've been to Scotland; I've been at Alaska; I've been been to Yukon and BC. Sorry guys I really think Norway may top even those great places. (So far) it doesn't quite have the space and enormity of Alaska and Canada but it has amazing scenery pretty much everywhere you look, great facilities everywhere and, as Tracy will bear testimony to, lovely hot chocolate.

If only it didn't rain so much.

Which it doesn't do when you're in a tunnel. So for 23 minutes we didn't get rained on! We passed through the world's longest passenger road tunnel. Who'd have thought that it was in Norway - specifically on the E16 north east of Flam.

      

Having started the day gawping at one of Norway's most visited waterfalls....

 

We caught another ferry and rode through some beautiful 'Lord of the Rings' type scenery - huge waterfalls cascading down the mountainside, as the road twisted its way up the valley floor. Occasionally we'd come across a small quaint Norwegian village all with wooden houses, painted deep red, or white or occasionally mustard yellow, often with grass roofs. And then another tunnel and then another fjord, and sometimes this...quite a shock I can tell you!

We stopped at Fjaerland. Population 300 but gets 300,000 tourists a year (almost all between June and September) Some because this place is the Hay-on-Wye of Norway. A Bibliophile's nirvana with dozens of second hand bookshops, but also because this is glacier country.

 

ONE man ONE bike ONE tent ONE glacier in the background

Tracy in her element. Stealing second hand books!

We camped for the night, in sight of continental Europe's largest (and most southerly?) glacier, but not before visiting the excellent Norwegian Glacier Museum, where we learnt all about ice, glaciers and global warming.

 

Little did we know how accurate that sign was!

Global warming - as witnessed by a retreating glacier. Caused by cows and the combustion engine.

Next day (Thursday? Not sure anymore) we moved north a little. A little, because the scenery was so amazing we just kept stopping to gawp at it. Another valley, another glacier, another waterfall.

Tracy had spotted a small campsite in the LP that sounded wonderful, so we headed to Olden and then along a minor (but sealed) road through yet more fantastic scenery to the very end of the valley. We were confronted with perhaps the best campground we have ever found!?

Set between two fingers of the glacier, Melkevoll Bretun campsite has lovely grass, flat pitches next to a raging river which is, in fact, icy water coming straight off the glacier. Above us we could see the glacier in the distance and over to our right was a massive waterfall. (I'm posting this blog before taking lots of photos of the campsite, which I'll add next week or on facebook)

And it was 'only' £18 a night and breakfast was just £5. There was even a free sauna (although, as nakedness is often expected in this part of the world I didn't partake).

We walked up to the edge of the glacier, passed by many tourists (mainly Chinese) who had taken a 'Troll car' (basically a golf cart) instead of walking for 50 minutes. This particular glacial finger has retreated some 500m in the last century and we followed the depressing signs back as they told us where it used to reach. But when we got to where it is today it was quite stunning. Tracy got very excited about picking up twenty thousand year old bits of ice (as you would) and put her 'scientist pose' on for the photo.

We're staying another night here.... might never make it to Nordkapp at this rate....

Scandinavian people.... Another thing I like about Norway, and Scandinavia in general I think, are the people. They are very friendly (and everyone seems to speak excellent English) and quiet and respectful. To generalise, I think we have more in common with Scandinavians (and Germans) than we may at first think. I mention this in my 'soon to be published book' (Had to mention it, sorry). When I was in the USA I commented on how we don't perhaps have as much in common with our North American 'cousins' as our common language might suggest. Just because we speak the same (or very similar) language doesn't mean we are the same. Whereas the British, Scandinavians and Germans do, I think, share many traits. We value personal space, are polite and friendly but in a non invasive way. I realise I'm on dodgy ground saying this as it's a massive generalisation. I don't mean to offend anyone. I'm just saying that it appears to me that we Brits are more European than we like to think sometimes and perhaps our 'special relationship' with Uncle Sam is holding us back from forming deeper relations with our true first cousins.

Tunnels, ferries and waterfalls - must be Norway

Norway

Mammoth blog – There's so much to say!

Norway. A long time on my wish list of places to visit but I'd always put it off, partly because it's so expensive. But this year we decided it was about time we had a look at what Slartibartfast won his award for.

And I don't really care how expensive it is...Norway is awesome. Think of Scotland and British Columbia and add some Alaska and you might be half way there. Norway is Fjords, and bridges and tunnels and ferries and rain and quiet and green and crisp and clear and curvy and ordered and wild and expensive. Did I mention the rain?

On day two I gave up counting how many tunnels we'd been through and by day three I'd lost count of the number of ferries we'd used. This is a wonderful place to ride a motorcycle and I can't believe I waited so long to get here. Sometimes on my travels I get somewhere and think, “Why have I waited so long to come here? Why haven't I been here before?” Norway is such a place. Having now been here I just think it would have been an awful shame if I'd died never having been to Norway. (I know I wouldn't care because I'd be dead but hopefully you get the point.)

Of course it IS expensive. Camping is £27 per night for the two of us, petrol is around £1:60-70 a litre and eating out is beyond us. Unless it's pizza. We managed a pizza for two and a salad for £20. Mostly we buy food in the supermarkets and its around 30% more expensive than at home. £6 for a can of beer, which we shared!

But she's worth it. Norway, that is, not Tracy.

Every day has been a great ride but Tuesday was just the best. Having spent Monday walking up to Preikestolen (a two hour hike uphill to the 600 metre square rock overlooking a fjord) we headed north on Tuesday riding through the fjords (and often, it must be said, through the rain).

Two hours uphill - but worth it

Here are a few select photos from Preikestolen...

While there a rescue helicopter landed. Notice the man with the husky

We were really worried that the husky would get away and fall over the edge (It didn't)

I think he's holding his son's legs, not pushing him.

To round things off we then went on our first ever helicopter ride! To see Preikestolen from the air.

Pulpit rock - from the air

I spent an hour this morning and then an hour this evening trying to add the photos and post this blog. It isn't working properly so at the moment this is half the blog. The other half will come when I get better internet access.

Nuclear submarine sits off the coast of Sweden....

So, first of all - a few technical problems. Not Scandinavia's fault. Wi-fi is available (although at a cost. Typically £3 a night in a campsite). No, the problems are all mine. My camera packed in, then started working again, then packed in again. And the Netbook is being very grumpy and slow and uploading to my blog seems to be harder than it should. Although if this is online then I must have managed it somehow.

Denmark was fun. Fantastic weather, almost too hot – especially when we got stuck in traffic for an hour on the way over to Zealand. I wasn't sure if lane splitting is illegal so I waited until another bike went past and I followed him. Most of the cars we passed politely moved over for us but it was noticeable that a few didn't. In fact they saw me in the mirrors and actively moved into my way so I couldn't get past. This seemed mean – even if what we were doing was illegal, they were going nowhere, stuck in a tailback because of a fire on the bridge, and what they were doing was likely to cause an accident. One particular car really annoyed me. He moved over, after seeing me coming and then moved over to the other side of the lane when I thought about going the other way around him. And then back again. Then another biker came from behind me and over took (on the wrong side really) at which point the driver veered over, almost hitting him. I took the opportunity to move up the inside of the car, as he'd moved over to the left so much, pulled alongside the passenger window and asked, politely, what his problem was. I didn't understand the reply.

I only tell this story as an example of how one small event or encounter can cloud someone's view of a whole nation. We only spent two full days in Denmark but unfortunately when I think of Denmark in the future it will be hard not to think of this.

Which will be a shame as we had a wonderful full day in Helsingbor, visiting Hamlet's Castle. Kronborg Castle, a Royal Residence and tax collector's house - as all shipping passing the narrow straights between Denmark and Sweden had to pay a tithe. It was famous in the 16^th Century and Shakespeare would have certainly known about it (Indeed he might even have visited). Hamlet is set in the castle and we wandered around it on our own before joining a fun, light hearted 'Hamlet tour' as Horatio, our guide, took us through the play (fortunately in 45 minutes!) stopping at key sites in the castle and ending in the ballroom (where everyone dies in the final scene) which was, in the 16^th Century, the largest ballroom in Europe (62 m long).

Next day we left Denmark on a 15 minute ferry to Sweden. I couldn't think of another place in the world where two countries are so close, but separated by sea. Unfortunately it was raining and it didn't stop for a few hours. This made the ride up the Swedish coast, along a motorway, a little dull. But we ended the day in a lovely campsite, on the shore just south of Stromstad. It was so nice we decided to stay the next day and spent Friday washing, resting and sunbathing. Sunbathing in Sweden! I'm not sure of our latitude but we must be north of Scotland by now.

Tomorrow we get the ferry to Norway.

I've had problems with my Netbook and have had to type this blog out twice. I'm not sure the photos will load but I'll try. Hopefully I'll work out what the problem is and next week's blog will be better. But I am on holiday and won't be spending all my free time trying to write a blog!

Top Tip so far. Danish and Swedish petrol stations are often unmanned and only take cards – no cash. And my Caxton visa card doesn't work in them. We did find one Swedish one that took cash. Petrol is about £1:45.

Elsinore - Hamlet's Castle

No comment

In the 17th Century the Swedes stole the fountain!

Biggest ballroom in Europe!

Heidi on her second ferry crosing - to Sweden in the rain

Sweden from Denmark. A ferry crossing every 15 minutes

Sunny days in Sweden.

Title of this blog refers to a Billy Bragg lyric just in case you still cared...

New website for GONE RIDING

I've recently created a website. It's to promote my book GONE RIDING which should be out in the Autumn. The website is certainly a 'work in progress' but if you want a look... http://domgiles.co.uk/

And I just joined twitter  DomGiles@DomGiles1

HU meeting June 2013

I know this post is a little late...I've been busy.

The Horizons Unlimited UK meeting this year was another success. Here's some photos...

Heidi next to my tent on a sunny but cold late May morning. This year the meeting had moved to Castle Donnington, with more camping space.

 

I did a talk on my trip, not forgetting to mention my up and coming book - GONE RIDING (out soon!)

Lots of bikers lined up for the slow bike race.

I very much hope (and plan) to be here next year selling my book alongside the likes of Ted Simon and, next to him, Dr Pat and Ness Garrod (Bearback).

I know travelling on a bike can be annoying sometimes, what with the lack of space - this is the other end of the spectrum. Notice the SOLD sign - £74,500!

That's a quick review of the HU meeting. More exciting news (for me at least) is that I've done a deal with Indepen Press and they will be publishing my book - hopefully within months. It's been a bit of a rush to get things sorted before the holidays but I signed a deal last week. More news, no doubt, when I get back from my current trip.

I'm off to Scandinavia....